Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Bridal Gowns: Silhouettes, Trains, Sleeves, Necklines, Fabrics

It's always a good idea to learn the language of the foreign country you're traveling to. Think of bridal salons as a foreign country, because they have a language of their very own. By communicating with the correct terms, you will be able to better convey the characteristics of your dream wedding gown.

Silhouettes

Silhouette simply means the shape of the gown. In one or two instances, it can also mean the structure of the gown.

Ball Gown

Typical Cinderella style gown. Fitted bodice and waist with a full skirt.

Empire

Fitted bodice to just below the bustline, with skirt falling from that point.

A-Line

Semi-fitted with skirt that is wider at the hem.

Sheath

Semi-fitted gown with straight, narrow skirt.

Mermaid

Fitted or semi-fitted with narrow skirt that fans out starting at the knees

Princess/Princess A-Line

Fitted gown that is similar to the sheath silhouette. The distinguishing feature of a princess gown is the two extra seams going from the bodice to the hem. With this structure, a slit is easily incorporated intothe design for walking. An A-line silhouette can also be acheived from the princess structure.


Lengths

Length decribes length the skirt. The formality of the wedding usually dictates the gown's length.

Floor

Long gown that just skims the floor. Best with a full skirt. Worn in formal weddings.

Ankle

Long gown that reaches the ankle, with shoes exposed. Best with straight or narrow skirts. Worn in formal weddings.

Ballerina/Tea

Skirt that reaches mid-calf. Usually for informal weddings or for bridesmaids gowns.

Steet

Skirt that reaches the knee. Worn in day and informal weddings.

Mini

Skirt that ends one to two inches above the knee. Worn in day and informal weddings.

Micro-Mini

Skirt that ends two inches or more above the knee. This length is popular with the young and trendy. Worn in day and informal weddings.

Trains

Trains come in different lengths and can be styled to be convertable for ease of movement after the ceremony. They are usually worn only in formal to semi-formal weddings. As with gowns, the length of the train is also dictated by the formality of the wedding.

Train Lengths

Cathedral

Remember Princess Di's train? That was the ultimate cathedral train. A cathedral train trails the bride by 2 yards or more in length. It is worn in only the most formal of weddings.

Chapel

Extends up to 2 yards from the gown. Also worn in formal weddings.

Court

Trails the bride by approximately 1 yard. Worn in semi-formal weddings.

Sweep

Trails the bride by 1/2 yard. Worn in semi-formal wedding.

Floor

This train length just skims the floor. It has become one of the more common length because of the ease of movement and practicality. Worn in semi-formal wedding.


Train Styles

Attached

Train simply extends the back of the skirt by the desired length. It is usually converted after the ceremony by gathering the train into a bustle. Eyes and hooks, or snaps are used for the conversion.

Detached

Train usually extends from the back of the waist. Eyes and hooks, or snaps are used to attach the train to the gown. Besides being ornamental, bows or fabric flowers are used to cover the snaps, or eyes and hooks. The train is usually removed after the ceremony.

Capelet

This style of train extends from the shoulders.

Watteau

Train usually extends from the gown's back yoke, just below the shoulder blades.

Necklines

This is one of the most important features of a gown. It provides a frame for the bride's face, as well as complements the accessories and jewelry she will be adorned with.

Bateau
This is a high straight neckline, from shoulder to shoulder.

Halter

A neckline on a backless or sleeveless gown that wraps around the neck.

Jewel

A gently rounded neckline that encircles the neck and is higher than the round neckline.

Portrait

A neckline that incorporates off-the-shoulder sleeves.

Round

A simple low rounded neckline.

Square

A neckline using only straight lines across the bust and to shoulders.

Sweetheart

A delicately shaped neckline that curves around and dip at the center of the bust line.

Sleeves

Cap

These are tiny sleeves that just covers the top of the shoulders.

Leg O' Mutton

These sleeves that are puffed at the shoulders and narrow at the wrists.

Puffed

Short sleeves with gathers to achieve fullness.

Dropped/Off Shoulder

Short or long leeves that start below the top of shoulders. The portrait neckline is a version of dropped sleeves.

Petal
Shaped sleeves that resemble flower petals. Usually short, and wrap around the arm.

Fitted

Traditional long fitted sleeves with a row of buttons at back of forearm.

Fabrics

The fabric plays an important part in your wedding gown. The weight, color, drapability and appearance of the fabric has to complement the design of the gown. The fabric also determines the cost of the gown. Natural fabrics, such as silks and cottons, usually command a higher cost.

Chiffon

This fluid, sheer, and transparent fabric is a favorite of bridal designers. Can be self hemmed or finished with ribbons. Mostly used as an overlay for heavier fabric. Fibers range from silk, rayon to polyester. Silk is the ideal choice for bridal gowns, but is very expensive. Rayon is the best alternative.

China Silk

A lightweight fabric with slightly irregular weave. Used for linings. Despite the name, today's china silk are commonly made from rayon or polyester.

Crepe Back Satin

A lightweight fabric with a smooth satin face and crepe weave backing.

Crepe de Chine

Similar to crepe back satin, but much softer to the touch and higher luster. Silk or rayon fibers are commonly used.

Doupion

Silk fabric with a irregular weave and has tiny nubs showing.

Faille

A low luster, soft fabric with a visible rib weave. Silk or rayon fibers are commonly used.

Illusion

A fine netting of tiny hexagonal mesh. Commonly used for construction of sleeves and upper bodice area of wedding gowns.

Lame

A fluid fabric made of metallic threads.

Moire

A stiff fabric with watermark effect.

Organza

A fabric similar to chiffon, but is much stiffer and has a low shine. Usually used for full skirts or as under support to achieve a full skirt silhouette.

Satin

A fabric with shiny smooth face and crepe back. Usually medium to heavy weight.

Peau de Soie

A soft satin faced fabric with less shine than the satin fabric, and a slightly visible grian.

Shantung

A medium to heavy weight raw silk fabric with nubs visible thorughout the fabric. Silk shantung is popular for wedding gowns. Usually comes in off white color.

Taffeta

A heavy and stiff fabric, most commonly seen with watermark effect.

Faille Taffeta

Combination of the taffeta weight and stiffness with the rib weave of the faille fabric.

Tulle

A stiff netting used for wedding veils and skirts of gowns.

Velvet

A heavy weight fabric with plush pile. Perfect for elegant winter weddings. Comes in silk, rayon and polyester.

Panne Velvet

A fabric derived from velvet. The pile is press flat to create a high shine. It is a soft and fluid fabric.

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