1. What are the advantages to having your dress custom made instead of buying one ready made?
One advantage to having your wedding gown made is that you can design a dress that fits your personality, figure type, and taste. You can choose neckline, sleeve, skirt, and embellishments that will comprise the dress of your dreams. Also, if you have special fitting challenges, they can all be dealt with before your dress is made rather than after construction. Alterations are often quite intensive and costly when you are dealing with a dress that has lace and beading.
2.How can I know what style is best for my body type?
TIPS FOR SELECTING FLATTERING STYLES
Slenderize - Lengthen vertical lines Look for styles with pressed pleats, vertical tucks, button front closings, v-necklines and princess seams.
Broaden - Shorten vertical lines. Look for styles with yokes, wide waistbands, extended shoulders, boat necklines, dropped waists, or empire waists.
Balance - The plus or minus of your figure. If bottom is broader choose styles with detail that broaden your top and vice versa.
Minimize - Large areas. Choose styles with virtually no details in the area you want to minimize (ex. large bust - no pockets or ruffles on front)
Accent - attractive figure areas. Choose styles with detailing in those areas. (ex. trim hips - sarong draping or hip yoke)
Reveal - figure shaping. Choose styles with traditional close fit. (ex. darts and contour shaping)
Conceal - figure shaping. Choose styles with relaxed fit which emphasizes the flow of fabric rather than figure underneath.
Streamline - fitting your body. Choose styles with seams or other details in areas needing adjustments. The more seams, darts, pleats, or gathers in a figure area, the more opportunities to correct the fit without extensive changes to the pattern pieces.
3. What are the best types of fabric to choose for my wedding dress?
Once you have focused in on a style that you like, it is time to decide on a fabric. If you are creating a family heirloom you may want to consider silk. This luxurious fabric looks elegant and is comfortable to wear because it is a natural fiber. Silk is available in a selection of weaves that will give your gown a rich look that no other fabric does. There is duppioni with its heavier slubs and luminous iridescent shine, shantung with its smaller slubs and subtle drape and silk satin with its lustrous smooth finish. Silk organza and chiffon are available for those who want some sheerness to bodice, sleeves, or as an overlay of a skirt. One thing to remember with silk is you will never achieve a stark white appearance to your dress, as silk always has a creamy appearance.
If you are creating medium cost gown but still want a fabric that is durable and one that will not wrinkle as easily, you may want to consider polyester fabrics. Peau de soie gives you a deep lustrous shine similar to silk satin. Satin will give your dress a high gloss shine. Satin-backed shantung will give your dress the elegant look of silk shantung without the expense. If you are on a budget you may want to consider acetate satin or taffeta for the base of you dress. Acetate wrinkles easier and is less forgiving in the construction process than the other fibers, but it is very affordable. The embellishments you choose for your gown are as numerous as your imagination. Alencon , Venice, Chantilly, Ribbon, or Guipure laces are available. Pearls, sequins, and rhinestones all add sparkle to the gown of your dreams. The possibilities are endless.
4. Tell me more about the fabrics used in Bridal Wear?
Fabrics can be differentiated by their most distinguishable characteristics, which can include:
A. Weave - a smooth or textural quality
B. Weight - heavy to light
C. Luminous Qualities - high-luster (shiny) to deluster (dull)
D. Thickness - one-ply (thin) to six-ply (thick)
E. Translucency - opaque, sheer, or transparent
F. Pattern - Woven or embossed
DEFINITIONS:
I. Silhouette - outline, the shape of the garment. A soft silhouette requires a soft, drapeable fabric, a stiffer silhouette requires a crisper fabric.
II. Hand - the way the fabric feels and drapes. This is a subjective judgment - the fabric must be felt and folded to see if it is appropriate for the design.
III. Warp - warp threads run parallel to the selvage forming the length of the fabric.
IV. Weft - filling threads running crosswise in the fabric - interlacing with the warp threads.
WEAVES AND FIBERS:
All fabrics have two names: the fiber and the weave. The first, fiber, is the actual thread from which the fabric is made. (ex. silk, cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate, etc.). The weave refers to the construction of the fabric; the number of warp threads over which the weft (filling) threads pass before going under. The most common in bridal fabrics are:
I. Plain Weave - the filling thread passes over and under one warp thread in alternating rows.
II. Satin Weave - produces a very smooth surfaced fabric. The filling threads pass under several warp threads - usually 4 to 5 - before passing over one warp thread. When made in cotton this fabric is called sateen.
III. Jacquard Weave - fabrics with a woven design using a jacquard attachment on the loom. Brocade is a heavier luxurious fabric made on a jacquard loom. Damask is a medium to heavy cotton or linen fabric made on a jacquard loom.
5. What are length of trains available?
Trains - a Sweeping train drapes from the waist. A Watteau train drapes from the shoulders. The longer the train the more formal the look.
A. Royal - extending 3 yards from waist
B. Cathedral - extending 2 1/2 yards from waist
C. Chapel - Extending 1 2/3 yards from waist
D. Court - extends 1 foot on floor
E. Sweep - token amount of fabric extending on floor
6. If I choose a long train, how can I deal with it during the reception?
The train can be sewn directly onto the gown or detachable. It can be Bustled to raise it up to floor length to keep it out of the way during the reception. Bustling involves bunching the fabric at waist level with hooks, snaps, buttons, or ribbon loops to form a flower like burst and allowing the remainder to drape. Over Bustling involves pulling the train up to the outside of the dress. Under Bustling involves pulling the train up to the inside at the waist.
7. What type of headpieces should I consider to wear at my wedding?
1. Headbands - narrow, medium, or wide strips that follow the head's arc.
2. Wreaths /Garlands /Circlets - circles placed either at back of head, flat on the crown, or how across the forehead
3. Sprays - resembles branchlets, twigs or flowers
4. Mantillas - Lace or netting that frames the face, raised by a wire armature and secured with an elaborate comb or pin.
5. Tiaras - crown-like curves sitting on the head (diadem) or above the brow (coronet)
8. What are the common lengths of bridal veils?
1. Facial /Madonna /Blusher/ Shoulder Length Veil - This type is not usually used alone, but is combined with other lengths. It is normally used for semi-formal and formal weddings.
2. Elbow Length Veil - This style is used with short or informal gowns.
3. Fingertip Length Veil - Touching the finger tips this type of veil is used for semi-formal and formal weddings.
4. Ballet / Waltz Length Veil - This veil falls to the knees and is usually used in a formal wedding.
5. Sweep Length Veil - This type of veil skims the ground and is also worn in a formal setting.
6. Chapel Length Veil - This style usually lays on the floor approximately 1 1/2 feet and is usually combined with shorter layers. It is worn in semi-formal and formal weddings.
7. Cathedral Length Veil - This is only used for formal weddings with gowns that also have cathedral length trains. One foot or more of the veil is to extend on the floor just past the end of the train.
8. Extended Cathedral /Royal Length Veil - This Veil again worn with the same style dress, extends approximately 5 feet on the floor just past the edge of the train.
9.What types of edgings can I choose for my veil?
1. Raw edge - unfinished and unadorned - the tulle can be cut to the desired size and left unfinished. Tulle will not ravel.
2. Marrow-edge /Rolled edge - a narrow 3 thread cover stitch that delicately outlines the edge of veil
3. Rat Tail Piping - A small satin cord stitched to the edge of veil
4. Lace Border - A narrow lace trim is used to edge the veil
5. Satin or Grosgrain Ribbon
6. Pearls - small joined pearls are stitched around the edge of veil
7. Satin Binding - A bias cut strip is sewn around edge of veil.
10.How do I choose a Dressmaker
Your special occasion is a time of careful planning. Part of that planning is finding a dressmaker that you are comfortable with - one that can help you created the image you are looking for. When you decide you are going to have your dresses custom made, start talking to every one you know.
Check your local fabric stores to see if they maintain a list of qualified seamstresses. Ask your friends and acquaintances for recommendations. Check with a trusted dry cleaner. Or local alteration or tailoring shops. Your wedding is too important to just pick a name from the yellow pages. You will want to find someone who is empathetic to your dreams. Someone who you are able to communicate with, and who will listen to what it is you want but is honest enough to share her opinions (not in a pushy way) as to whether what you have in mind will work in a way that will be pleasing to you in the end.
Whatever source you choose, there are some steps you can employ to ensure that the person you hire will be able to accomplish what you want.
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